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Steel sports watches are trending. They are one of the most competitive segments in the industry. Let’s take a closer look at 5 newcomers that topped the charts in 2020.

1. Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060
Rolex Submariner

It was the 2020 launch everybody was waiting for: the new Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060. New? Yes, because almost everything got an upgrade – just with Rolex’s signature subtlety. New 41mm diameter (compared with 40mm for the previous models); updated case profile with slightly resized proportions; larger bracelet measuring 21mm wide (+1mm). And, above all, a current-generation mechanical movement with automatic winding: the caliber 3230. Like with all Rolex watches, it is guaranteed for 5 years.

ID Card: 41 mm Oystersteel case / unidirectional rotatable bezel with insert in Cerachrom / new automatic caliber 3230 / hours, minutes, seconds / Oystersteel bracelet with Oysterlock folding clasp and Glidelock extension / water resistant to 300m / USD 8,100

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2. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

The Memovox from Jaeger-LeCoultre is a trailblazer in the history of dive watches. Since 1959, the Memovox Deep Sea has featured an acoustic alarm function powered by mechanical movement. In 1968, with its Memovox Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the interior rotating bezel. The 2020 incarnation of the Polaris Mariner Memovox re-embraces these features / continues in this tradition and has upped its game with a sapphire display caseback so the alarm hammer can be admired in action.

This new Polaris Mariner Memovox combines the ISO 6425 diver standard – including water resistance to 300 meters – and a modern sporting aesthetic.

ID Card: 42 mm steel case / unidirectional rotating inner bezel / manufacture automatic caliber Jaeger-LeCoultre 956 / hours, minutes, seconds, date, alarm / water resistant to 300m / USD 17,600

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3. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue
Tudor NavyBlue

When Tudor launched its Heritage Black Bay model in 2012, it wanted to pay homage to its diver models of the late 1950s. There was no intention of launching a new collection. But the appeal of this model decided otherwise. The years passed, 20 or so models followed. Eventually, in 2018, with demand still as strong as ever, Tudor launched a new, smaller Black Bay Fifty-Eight line (39mm compared with 41mm for the Black Bay) that was more delicate and elegant, in the words of enthusiasts. Following its iterations in black, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight line has been enhanced in 2020 with three new Navy Blue versions. The steel case, measuring 39mm in diameter, is available with a choice of steel bracelet, blue fabric strap or blue “soft touch” synthetic strap. It is powered by a manufacture movement MT 5402, is chronometer-certified and offers 70 hours of power reserve. This peace of mind is reinforced even further by a 5-year guarantee.

ID Card: 39 mm steel case / unidirectional rotatable bezel / manufacture automatic caliber MT 5402 (COSC) / hours, minutes, seconds / water resistant to 200m / USD 3,700

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4. Bell & Ross BR V2-93 GMT Blue
Bell & Ross

With its neo-vintage look, this BR V2-93 GMT Blue will be a hit with travelers (yes, there are still some out there…) who are looking for a watch that it both stylish and function-forward. In addition to the GMT hand that has been redesigned in red for greater visibility, its two-tone blue and gray bezel adds a stylish touch. It makes a nice change from blue and red…

ID Card: 41 mm steel case / bi-directional bezel with 24-hour scale / blue and gray two-color anodized aluminum disc / automatic caliber BR-CAL.303 / hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT / water resistant to 100m /  USD 3,200

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5. Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec Color Edition Four Seasons
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi

Four seasons, four colors and three time zones! Carl F. Bucherer breathes new life into its range with the launch of its model Patravi TravelTec Color Edition Four Seasons. Available in green, yellow, orange and blue. This ultra-technical model features a striking case and, in addition to its three time zones, offers a chronograph with movement that is chronometer-certified by the COSC.

ID Card: 46.6mm steel case / automatic caliber CFB 1901.1 (ETA 2894 base) / hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph and three time zones / rubber strap and folding buckle / water resistant to 50m / USD 10,900

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A specialist in watchmaking journalism, Michel is the founder of The Next Hour. Fascinated by the fundamental issues related to communication and social networks, convinced that watchmaking still has a very large audience to capture beyond the circle of connoisseurs, he launched The Next Hour to chart a course and make this medium a fun and informative meeting place of quality. Michel is also a member of the Cultural Council of the Fondation de la Haute horlogerie and a member of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Academy.

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