Horological complications have for decades followed principles involving narrow codification and extreme classicism. Bulgari has always ignored these terms. Witness the new Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon, with platinum case (44 mm), white gold crown set with a black ceramic insert, open-worked titanium middle-case, manufacture manual-winding BVL428 calibre, minute repeater, three-hammer carillon, tourbillon and 75-hour power-reserve indicator, blue alligator strap with platinum triple-blade folding clasp. Limited to 30 pieces. Two traditional complications speaking a resolutely modern language.
Contemporary interpretation is an integral part of the creative acts of Bulgari, which applies it daily to its watchmaking developments. Such is the case with the new Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon which, while combining two essentially classic complications, redefines watchmaking tradition in a resolutely modernist approach. This watch features a highly graphic skeletonised movement with blue bridges. The platinum case is encircled by a blued titanium caseband.
It has been designed to amplify the sound rendition and clarity, which is the primary parameter governing the construction of a striking watch. The Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon movement with three hammers, hand-wound calibre BVL428, measures 35 mm in diameter, 8.35 mm thick and comprises a total of 432 components. It is entirely manufactured in-house.
The generous proportions of the case are designed to maximise sound propagation, enabling increased torque from the three-tone construction and greater sound power production. In particular, the caseband is designed to maximise sound and allow it to spread as much as possible. It has cavities inside the design to reduce the amount of metal between the inside and outside, and three openings on the caseband that correspond to the three gongs, thus allowing the sound to exit the chamber.
The gongs are attached directly to the body of the case for the most efficient sound transmission and the middle-case is made of titanium to ensure the clearest possible sound diffusion. The back is also hollowed out and redesigned with a titanium grid that protects this resonant area and enables outward transmission of the sound.
The gongs on the watch are hand-crafted in several stages. They are bent and formed by hand before being annealed, or hardened, at a temperature of 900 degrees Celsius, then cleaned before being reheated in a 500-degree kiln, a process that endows the metal with its crystal-clear resonance. Like some components of the striking mechanism, they are drawn out with a file, in order to refine the chords of the chime. The melodic sequence of this chime with three hammers striking three tones plays the note C for the hours, the notes E D C for the quarters and the note E for the minutes. The mechanism is activated by a pusher on the left side of the caseband.
The movement is equipped with one classical barrel ensuring the power reserve of at least 75 hours for the movement at full charge, meanwhile the functioning of the sound mechanism is ensured by a spring which is contained in a barrel-shaped container drilled directly in the bridge.
The architecture of the BVL428 calibre, the cut-out of the bridges and the positioning of the various components are original, contemporary and contrasted in order to reveal the beauty of the mechanism. The hammers, gongs, tourbillon cage and perforated surfaces are made of alternating polished steels, while the finely worked mainplate and bridges feature an ALD treatment. The high-tech carbon-based vacuum-deposition coating is an elegant deep blue.
Available in a 30-piece limited edition the watch has a transparent sapphire crystal caseback, is water-resistant to three atmospheres, and comes with a blue alligator leather strap secured by a platinum triple-blade folding clasp.
Price : USD 317,000